Entryway Cabinet

Entry way cabinet with two drawers, two doors and shelf.  Two versions shown here to show how different wood takes the stain totally differently.

The plans below are also available for download as a PDF document on the Plans for Leukaemia page

Introduction

I have tried to ensure all steps are covered in these plans but if you find any errors in the plans or have a question then please email me at info@andrewharriswoodwork.com to let me know.

All my builds are made with pocket hole joinery.  You will need a pocket hole jig tool such as a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig in order to build them.

Shopping List

Size Length Quantity Board Number
2 by 2 6 feet 2 1, 2
1 by 2 8 feet 4 3, 4, 5, 6
1 by 3 8 feet 2 7, 8
1 by 4 8 feet 4 9, 10, 11, 12
1 by 4 6 feet 1 13
1 by 6 6 Feet 1 14
Drawer slides 14 inch 2 pairs  
¼ inch plywood 24 ¾ by 11 ¾ minimum for back panels – Quantity 2
¼ inch plywood For drawer bottoms and back panels.  See build notes as will depend on method of drawer construction
¾ inch plywood 14 by 27.25 Quantity 2 for side inserts.
¾ inch plywood 34 ½ by 15 ½ for bottom shelf.

 

You will also need:

  • Pocket Hole Tool such as a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
  • 25 inch pocket screws
  • 25 inch wood screws
  • ¾ inch finishing nails
  • Wood glue
  • Drawer/Door pulls
  • 4 door hinges

 

Estimated Material Cost: $200 plus cost of door/drawer pulls and hinges

Cut list

Please read all instructions before cutting wood as shown below.  I suggest some pieces are cut as you go to ensure a tight fit.

Size Length (inches) Quantity Used For Board Number
2 by 2 35 4 Legs Two from board 1 and two from board 2
1 by 2 33 3 Front top rail and middle rails and rail for screwing top to 3
1 by 2 14 2 Top rails for sides 4
1 by 2 20 1 Vertical front support 3
1 by 2 5.75 1 Vertical support between drawers 3
1 by 2 14 2 Drawer rail supports 4
1 by 2 15.5 2 Drawer rail supports 6
1 by 3 14 2 Bottom rail for sides 7
1 by 3 33 1 Front bottom rail 7
1 by 3 19 ¾ 4 Door 8
1 by 3 10 ½ 4 Door Three from 7 and one from 8
1 by 4 33 2 Back top and bottom rails One from 9 and one from 12
1 by 4 24 ¼ 1 Back vertical support 9
1 by 4 14 ¾ 4 Drawer sides One from 12 and three from13
1 by 4 13 ¼ 4 Drawer front and back One from 12 and one from 13
1 by 4 38 5 Top Two from 10, two from 11 and two from 12
1 by 6 15 ¾ 2 Drawer Fronts 14
1.5 by 0.5 inch 15 ¾ 4 Poplar for drawer trim.  Cut to fit once drawer is made and drawer front fitted.  
1.5 by 0.5 inch 5 ¾ 4 Poplar for drawer trim.  Cut to fit once drawer is made and drawer front fitted.  
¼ by 1 ½ trim 16 4 Back of door trim  
¼ by 1 ½ trim 8 3/4 4 Back of door trim  
¾ inch plywood 14 by 27.25 2 For side inserts  
¾ inch plywood 34 ½ by 15 ½ 1 Bottom shelf  
¼ inch plywood 11 ¾ by 16 2 Door backs  
¼ inch plywood 14 ¾ by 14 ¾ 2 Drawer bottoms  
¼ inch plywood 24 ¾ by 11 ¾ 2 Back Panels  

 

Step 1 – Make the two Side frames

Join two of the legs together using the 1 ½ by 14 for the top rail and the 2 ½ by 14 for the bottom rail.

Make sure the gap between the rails is 27 ¼ inches.

 

 

Step 2 – Add side inserts

The sides in the plan are slightly different to the picture shown and are just solid panels as easier to make.

I actually like to use 1 by 4s joined together with a 45 degree bevel if you have a router.  That is more work though and depends if you want to do it but does give a nicer look.  Note if you took this approach then as the 1 by 4s may not be exactly 1 by 4 then do not use glue in the first step incase you need to trim the length of the side top and bottom rails.

 

 

Step 3 – Add front Rails

Add the two 1 by 2 and the one 1 by 3 horizontal front rails as shown and then the two 1 by 2 vertical rails.

I would suggest cutting those vertical rails once the horizontal ones are in place to ensure a tight fit.

 

Step 4 – Add Back rails and support

Add the two horizontal three vertical 1 by 4 rails as shown below.

 

 

Step 5 – Add the bottom Shelf

Cut a ¾ inch square notch out of each corner of the plywood measuring 34.5 inches by 15.5 inches.

Drill pocket holes at the edge of each side and approximately 6 inches apart equally spaced along each side.

Fix the bottom shelf using pocket hole screws from flush with the top of the rails using pocket hole screws.  Make sure the pocket hole screws are on the bottom.

Leave a 1 inch gap between the bottom edge of the shelf and the bottom of the rail.

 

Step 6 – Make the Doors

Drill pocket holes at both ends of the two shorter pieces and make the doors as shown below.

Remember the total width of the door should be ¼ inch less than the width of the opening for the door.

Same applies to the height of the door and the height of the opening for.

 

 

Step 7 – Door Insert

Fix ¼ inch thick ply to the back of the door overlapping the frame by at least ½ inch to allow fixing.

I like to overlap sufficiently to try to cover the pocket holes and then add 1 ½ inch trim around the edge of the back just to tidy it up but the diagram below shows the minimum size you would need.

 

Step 8 – Drawer rail supports

Add drawer rails supports as shown using the 14 inch lengths of 1 by 2 for the outer ones and the 15 ½ inch 1 by 2’s for the two inner ones.

The bottom of the support rail should be flush with the top of the front horizontal rail.

  

Step 9 – Drawers

Drill pocket holes in the both ends of the 13 ¼ inch length 1 by 4 drawer pieces.

Join 13 ¼ inch pieces to the 14 ¾ inch lengths of 1 by 4 to form the drawers.

Cut two 14 ¾ by 14 ¾ pieces of ¼ inch plywood for the bases.  Fix the plywood base to the bottom with ¾ inch finishing nails and glue.  I prefer to use a router to make the base inserted into the sides but nailing to the bottom will work fine.

Fix the drawer part of the drawer slide to the bottom of the drawer.  I suggest you make the front edge of the slide sit flush as shown in the photograph below.

 

 

Step 10 – Fitting the drawer rails

Fit the outer side parts of the drawer rails so that the leading edge is flush with the back edge of the front lower rail and the bottom edge of the rail is half an inch above the top of the rail. (excuse the basic block drawing for the rail)

 

Step 11 – Fitting the drawer

The drawer should then sit with half inch clearance from the bottom rail.

 

Step 12 – Fit Drawer Front

The drawer fronts are the 1 by 6 pieces measuring 15 ¾ inches long.

Drill two holes through the inner drawer front shown in the picture in step 10 and then fix the outer drawer front by screwing through the inner drawer front into the outer drawer front using 1 ¼ inch screws.

Tip clamp the drawer front in position when happy with the spacing and then screw it in place.

There should be a 1/8 inch gap all around the outer drawer front.

 

Step 13 – Fit backing

Cut two pieces of ¼ inch plywood at least 12 ¼ by 25 ¼ and use ¼ inch finishing nails to nail them to the back of the cabinet from the inside.

 

 

Step 14 – Making the Top

Use 5 pieces of 1 by 4 measuring 38 inches length and join them together with pocket hole screws to make the top.  The top will be 17.5 inches deep.

Tip – Make sure you place the outermost pocket holes at least an inch from the edge so that they do not protrude outside the edge of the cabinet and can’t be seen.

Sand the top so that the boards are flush with each other and joins not visible (unless you want them to be).

  

Step 15 – Fitting the Top

On the sides and back rails drill pocket hole screws facing upwards to use to fit the top.

On the front the 1 by 2 rail is not deep enough to drill pocket holes in.  Instead fit another 1 by 2 behind it and screw it to the inside of the front rail and drill holes for in it for fixing the top through.

Place the top with the good side down and then place the upturned cabinet on top.  Make sure you have equal gap all around and then fix with 1 ¼ inch pocket hole screws on sides and back and 2 inch screws on the front edge.

  

Step 16 – Drawer Trim

Cut the drawer trim to fit once the drawer front is added.  Fix in place with glue and 1 ¼ inch finishing nails.

I like to evenly space the nails and leave the small nail head holes showing for a more rustic finish.

I like to use the ½ inch thick poplar for the trim as It provides a slight contrast when stained.

 

Step 17 – Optional Shelf

A shelf can also be added.  If you want to add shelf then you will need 4 lengths of 1 by 4 at 34 ½ inches long each or piece of ¾ inch plywood measuring 14 by 34 ½ inches.

If using 1 by 4 then join them with pocket holes.

Then either fix side rails as supports at desired location or use a shelf pin jig to drill holes where you want the shelf and support it with shelf pins.

The wood for the shelf is not included in the shopping list or cut list.

 

Step 18 – Finish

Sand well to smooth our joints and remove any wood glue residue.

Apply Pre stain and your choice of color or paint as desired.

 

Step 19– Hardware

Add hardware of your choice.

I also fit magnetic latches to the inside of the doors and frame to stop the doors from going inside the cabinet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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